Having been to 8 islands so far in French Polynesia, you must know by now how deep my love runs for this destination. The island that had been on the VERY top of my bucketlist here was Fakarava and I am so glad we were able to visit it this time around! It is without a doubt one of my favorite places in the world and I am already itching to revisit.

We love the Tuamotu archipelago in general! Last year we fell in love with the Tuamotus when we visited Tikehau, so this year we knew we had to go back to explore more. We did both Rangiroa and Fakarava this time around and it was absolutely incredible. I wanted to share a quick guide on all that you might need to know if you visit Fakarava in this blog post.

About Fakarava :

Fakarava is one of the most beautiful lagoon atolls in French Polynesia and in the world! It has been deemed as a UNESCO Biosphere reserve due to its particularly rare flora and fauna. The rectangular reef encloses such a rich unique ecosystem and the protected coral atoll here is a natural reserve for many rare species of birds, plants and crustaceans.

Fakarava is Mother Nature’s ultimate sanctuary. This is a diver’s haven and is the one place in the world known for its “wall of sharks” – where you can dive with over 500 sharks! Diving enthusiasts come from all over the world to swim with the majestic gray sharks in the waters of Fakarava, explore the coral reef and drop-off, and admire the sea turtles, rays, barracudas and a host of other marine species.

We aren’t divers and even with just snorkeling you can see a ton of marine life! And if you are a sucker for idyllic lagoon and remote islands of the beaten path – Fakarava is truly the island of dreams!

Here are all the reasons to visit and more :

• A splendid unspoiled atoll world renowned for diving and snorkeling
• Dreamy “motus” of pink and white sand, dotted with coconut trees and the most pristine lagoons.
• Cultural and historical sites to explore.
• The inland and water activities.

Getting here and getting around :

Air Tahiti has a direct flight option to Fakarava from Papeete as well as from Rangiroa. It was so convenient for us to get here from Rangiroa. If you get one of their multi-passes you would be able to save a ton on your internal flights.

Once you land in Fakarava airport, the local truck-buses will drop you off in your different pensions and accomodations in North Fakarava. If you are going to the South, its a 1.5 hour boat ride from the North and your accomodation would usually arrange this for you.

Fakarava dosen’t have any car rental or bike agencies, Most accomodations have cycles to rent or you can reserve ebikes or escooters from some too. Bikes or foot is the best way to get around for the most part since you are going to be out on the lagoon for the most part.

 

NORTH FAKARAVA

Where to stay in North Fakarava :

Fakarava dosen’t have any major resorts or big accomodations. Infact I feel like the absence of any major resort is truly a blessing in disguise as it only helps to maintain the atoll’s pure surroundings, secluded appeal and authentic nature.

Havaiki Lodge is the best place to stay in all of Fakarava. Located in north Fakarava, it sits on the most beautiful beach in town and has a couple of accomodation  styles to choose from – beach bungalows, garden rooms, etc. We loved staying in a garden room, it had a clean basic bedroom, bathroom and balcony.

They have the best snack bar in town – Snack Du Requim Dormeur is a feet in the water kind of snack bar where you can enjoy delicious fish specialties. They also have another restaurant for in house guests where daily breakfasts and dinners are served. The dinners here were so so good, all dishes were part of a set menu and made from fresh local ingredients.

Havaiki’s beachfront is stunning, with plenty of snorkeling right at the shore. You will see tons of nurse sharks in the shallow here! You can also rent kayaks from here to go out into the lagoon.

Havaiki also organises tours in Fakarava atoll and you can also book this directly at the lodge. While you are here also don’t miss out on visiting their Pearl Farm to try the Pearl Lottery. More on that in the activities section below.

Things to do in North Fakarava ( non divers ) :

Since we were only in the North for this trip and since we don’t dive, I will only cover the activities we did. We booked all of these with Havaiki.

1 ) Green Lagoon Tour

Motu Teahatea or commonly known as Green Lagoon in Fakarava is an idyllic lagoon sheltered by palm fringed motus all around. It is like a natural swimming pool of crystal clear waters filled with fish, black tip sharks and so much healthy coral.

We spent half a day at Green Lagoon – snorkeling , exploring all the little motus around, snacking fresh tropical fruit, hopping on sandbars and more. This place is straight outta. a dream and without a doubt both Anush and my new fave corner in the world! Its just so pristine and magical in every way. Here are some photos :

In and around Green Lagoon

So many sharks and fish in the shallow!

2 ) PK-9 beach

We rented an escooter on one of the afternoon to drive to whats been known as one of the most stunning beaches in all of French Polynesia. There really aren’t any facilities here and its a long dirt road to get there but well worth the effort to go to this untamed wild beach!

Pk 9 beach is drop dead gorgeous and what you would imagine a wild Tuamotu beach would look like. As the name suggests it is 9km west of Rotoava (you would need to go past the airport and follow the dirt track on the left at the PK9 marker). It’s a thin, laid-back stretch of white coral sand backed by tall leaning palms and lapped by sparkling turquoise waters.

Quick tip – check the tides when you come here. We ended up coming during high tide so we hardly had a beach. If you visit at low tide, you will have a proper beach and calmer waters. Also on your way back near PK2, dont miss out on the ancient Topaka Lighthouse.

3 ) Try the Pearl Lottery at Havaiki

Pearl Farming is very popular in the Tuamotus and Havaiki has the oldest pearl farm in Fakarava! It has also been featured in several articles including National geographic. A must do activity in Fakarava is attending a presentation at the farm where they show you everything about how they harvest pearls, demonstrate grafting and so much more.

4) Explore the quaint village of Rotoova

The picturesque village of Rotoava with its nicely decorated Catholic church and its small craft shops is a pleasure to explore on foot. We loved the slow easy pace of island life here.

5 ) South Fakarava Snorkeling Tour

Boats only go out in good weather and if there are enough number of people ( unless its private) as the South is very far. If you want to guarantee to go to the South, you would be better off staying in the South for a few days as well.

 

SOUTH FAKARAVA

Where to stay in South Fakarava :

Things to do in South Fakarava ( non divers) :

1 ) Hirifa Beach

Hirifa Beach is a slice of heaven! It is on the southeast tip of Fakarava, and is a serene, remote spot known for its soft pink sands and clear, shallow waters. Sheltered from strong winds, it’s a favorite among sailors and perfect for swimming or relaxing. With minimal development and a peaceful vibe, it’s an ideal escape for nature lovers seeking solitude. You can reach here either by hiking or kayaking from Raimiti. Sometimes they drop guests off here as well for a few hours.

Postcards from Hirifa :

2) Pink Sands

My absolute favorite place in South Fakarava ! Near Tetamanu Village in southern Fakarava, pink sand beaches shimmer with crushed coral and white sand, creating a soft blush hue. Accessible by boat, they offer peaceful spots for swimming and snorkeling, surrounded by vibrant marine life and untouched beauty. If you stay at Tetemanu, you can kayak from there as well.

PC : Fakarava Photos ( @emmanuellelarchet)

3) Snorkeling at Tetemanu Village at the South Pass

The one MUST DO thing at the south is Snorkeling at Tetamanu Village by the South Pass was hands-down the best snorkeling experience of my life. The moment I slipped into the crystal-clear water, I was surrounded by an unreal world—dozens, maybe hundreds, of reef sharks gliding calmly just beneath me. It was exhilarating and peaceful all at once. The coral was vibrant, the visibility was unreal, and the sheer variety of marine life was like swimming in an aquarium. I’ve never felt more connected to the ocean than I did there. If you love snorkeling, this spot will absolutely blow your mind.

PC : Fakarava Photos ( @emmanuellelarchet)

4) Kayak, Hike, Snorkel the remote atoll 

From Raimiti, you can choose your own adventure – there is so much to do right here. From snorkeling to kayaking the picture perfect lagoon or hiking along the coral reef side along the ocean side to nearby hoa’s ( water channels).

5) Unplug from reality

Or better yet, Raimiti was the perfect place to truly disconnect and reconnect with nature. I loved that there was no Wi-Fi—it made the experience feel even more intentional. Sure, you can get an eSIM like we did, but the signal was spotty at best… and honestly, that was a blessing in disguise. I think it was the first time in ages that I fully unplugged, and it was absolutely incredible.

Photographer in Fakarava :

Many of my photos in this blog post are shot by Fakarava Photos ( @emmanuellelarchet ). If you visit Fakarava and would love to have a dedicated photoshoot at specific spots like Pk9, Green Lagoon, Pink Sands or more, you must reach out to her to book her for her amazing service. She knows the best spots and will give you the best photos!

Check out my travel guide to French Polynesia for guides to other islands.

Thanks for stopping by! xo

Jyo